Making the perfect suit look the part is quite an individual thing. You may never find an off-the-rack suit that fits as it should, or do you think you will? It could however be that your tailor will be able to adjust it if he’s willing the risk. Is that something you would risk though? On the contrary, it is highly unlikely. For the perfect style, you could instead have your suit bespoke made. In this article, we will look at the various aspects of what makes a suit fit well.
The shoulder of your jacket should always lie flat, and the shoulder seam should be the same length as the bone. It should meet the sleeve of the suit where your arm and shoulder join together. An ill-fitting shoulder will either cause your sleeve to ride up or hang loose. This is one of the hardest parts for a tailor to adjust so it’s important not to buy a jacket with an ill-fitting shoulder.
The jacket should be buttoned when standing, with the last button left undone. When you are trying on your suit jacket, first try it with just one button fastened. You want to see the two sides meet neatly without the lapels hanging forward or the lower edges of the jacket flaring out. The button should close without a strain and the fabric should not be wrinkled. Your tailor will be able to make reasonable adjustments, but a cheap suit that doesn’t close properly cannot be put right.
It should fall past the waist and drape over the top of the curve of the buttocks. The hem of the jacket should sit level with the middle of your hand when you’re in a neutral stance. If the hem of the jacket is slightly flared, it’s too short. It is too long if it falls past the seat altogether. Minor adjustments can be made if necessary if you would like, but too much, and the jacket will be pulled out of shape.
The jacket sleeve
The sleeve of your jacket should leave around half an inch of your shirt visible at the cuff. If it is too short, it is likely to restrict movement. However, if it is too long, you’ll perhaps need to have it adjusted. When buying a suit jacket, preferably err on the side of a long sleeve, since this can be adjusted to fit.
Your jacket collar should rest against your shirt collar, which in turn should rest against the back of your neck. All of these should touch lightly, without significant gaps in between.
The seat of your pants is advised to lie loosely against your underwear, without pulling tight or drooping. If you find horizontal wrinkles under the seat or if your pants sag around the backs of your thighs, it’s probably fair to say that your pants need adjusting. The seat is too tight? It’s unlikely it can be ‘let out’ as there’s rarely enough spare fabric. Too loose, they can be ‘taken in’ but bear in mind, there’s a limit. If they’re too loose, taking them in will start to pull the pockets out of place and cause them to become ill-fitting. Don’t risk that.
The trouser break is the small wrinkle where the bottom of your pants meets the tops of your shoes. It should be subtle with a single dimple or crease. Any more than that and you risk that your pants will look creased. The pants might be prone to fall a little more at the back of the shoe than the front, but just a touch, or everything will end up looking out of shape. This is a relatively simple job for your tailor; provided the length of the pants is correct.
We, at Instyle Bespoke Tailors are the go-to Phuket tailor for stylish suits perfectly fitted to your shape and style. We’re waiting to help make your suit look and fit perfectly.